Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver: The Perfect Luxury Diver?
Let’s talk luxury dive watches. Omega Planet Ocean? No. LUXURY dive watches. Ok, how about a Rolex Submariner? Still no. Today we are talking about probably the definitive luxury dive watch, and that is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver.
What is a Luxury Dive Watch?
It's important to make the distinction between what is truly a luxury dive watch. Watches like the Submariner or the Planet Ocean are essentially tool watches that have become luxurious over time as watches have become more expensive. In fact, most dive watches today follow a pattern where they start as historical tool watches and then get "pimped out" to command luxury prices. It offers the confidence and versatility typical of dive watches while maintaining its luxurious essence.
In contrast, the Royal Oak Offshore was designed from the outset to be a luxury product that also happens to be useful, not the other way around. This isn’t the first time that AP has pulled this trick. In the 1970’s the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak introduced a luxury sports watch in stainless steel - it lacked none of the supreme finishing, attention to detail, build quality or movement sophistication that came with AP’s dress watches - it just happened to be versatile and functional. The same story applies to the Offshore Diver.
Royal Oak Offshore History
The Offshore Diver is a three-hander diving version of Audemars Piguet's sequel to the Royal Oak, namely the 1993 Offshore. The Offshore created the segment of oversized big luxury watches, and the Offshore Diver carried this concept further, pioneering the luxury dive watch category. Unlike other watches that are tool watches made luxurious over time, the Offshore Diver was born as a luxury watch, featuring 300 meters of water resistance, a proper diving bezel, and versatility not found in the standard Royal Oak.
2021: AP Updates the Royal Oak Offshore DiveR
In 2021, Audemars Piguet released an update to the Offshore Diver, enhancing its versatility and usability while maintaining its luxury roots. One significant improvement was the introduction of quick-release straps, allowing easy personalization and tapping into the aftermarket strap market. The Offshore Diver is designed to be an expression of individuality, and the quick-release straps facilitate this personalization.
Movement: Calibre 4308
Another major upgrade in the 2021 model was the introduction of an open case back with the Calibre 4308 movement. This 60-hour power reserve automatic three-hander movement is fully on display in a 300-meter water-resistant watch, showcasing meticulous attention to detail and finishing. The movement features a blackened gold rotor, emphasizing its luxurious yet utilitarian feel; Audemars Piguet could have easily fitted a tungsten rotor and no one would have noticed, however no such corners would be cut on AP’s genre defining luxury diver. This level of detail extends to the rest of the case, with beautifully polished bevels and contrasting finishes.
Finishing
Every surface of the Offshore Diver is carefully considered, with directional brushing and contrasting finishes to highlight its luxury status. The polished bevels and accenting colors between the dial, strap, and dive bezel are meticulously matched. Even the ceramic crowns, which replaced the older rubber ones, are finished with contrasting textures to maintain the AP look and feel.
| Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15720ST.OO.A009CA.01 | |
|---|---|
| Case/Bracelet Material | Stainless Steel |
| Bezel Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 42mm |
| Thickness | 14.1mm |
| Water Resistance | 300M |
| Calibre 4308 | |
|---|---|
| Manufacture | Audemars Piguet |
| Movement Type | Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 Hours |
| Complications | Date |
| Rotor | 18k Gold |
On the Wrist
Despite its 42 mm size, the Offshore Diver is surprisingly easy to wear due to its case shape, which arcs downward for a comfortable fit. It isn't a thin watch, but compared to other 300-meter dive watches, it's within acceptable limits. The strap is comfortable and secure, ensuring that the watch feels well-built. Its legibility is excellent, thanks to the Mega Tapisserie dial and white gold indices, all fully lumed, including the dive timer.
Downsides to the Royal Oak Offshore Diver
There are only a couple of criticisms. First, the clasp, while well-finished, is generally too big and wide. Second, the internal bezel, while a nod to historical divers, is somewhat impractical as it requires unscrewing to rotate. Although this maintains the iconic Royal Oak design, it isn't as user-friendly as a standard rotating bezel.
Conclusion
Overall, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver commits fully to its concept, reflecting Audemars Piguet's innovative spirit. The brand has a history of inventing new segments, from the integrated steel sports watch to the oversized luxury sports watch with the Offshore, and now with the luxury dive watch category. This willingness to experiment and create new segments sets AP apart from other brands, including Rolex, which hasn't invented a new segment since the '50s.
