The best new Watch releases of 2024 - So far
2024 has been relatively eventful when it comes to new watch releases. On one hand, quite restrained - without many offseason releases, and even Watches and Wonders provided one of the most uneventful lineups from Rolex in quite some time. However, that doesn't mean there haven't been exciting watches, and those are the ones we’re focusing on today.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
One of the most unexpected releases of the year is the new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver. Just a few weeks ago, I did a video on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, emphasizing its focus as a luxury watch with practical dive features and not the other way around. The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver follows a similar vein, emphasizing the movement in particular - equipped with the calibre 3620, derived from the new El Primero 3600 from the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. This model doesn't have the 1/10th of a second timer, instead working more like a traditional El Primero with a smooth sweeping seconds hand, while still incorporating all the new innovations of the latest generation.
The aesthetics are striking, especially the bold orange accents, which pay homage to the A3648. Zenith also released a proper reimagining of the A3648 alongside this new model. The watch features fully interchangeable straps, including a rubber strap, a titanium strap, and adapters for a NATO strap. A notable touch is the 600 meters of water resistance, which translates to 1,969 feet—a nod to 1969, the year the El Primero was originally released and a significant year in Zenith's history.
In terms of dimensions, the Defy Extreme Diver measures 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm thick. While it is a bit thick, it remains manageable and could make for an interesting comparison to the Offshore Diver.
| Zenith Defy Extreme Diver 95.9600.3620/21.I300 | |
|---|---|
| Case/Bracelet Material | Titanium |
| Bezel Material | Ceramic |
| Case Diameter | 42.5mm |
| Thickness | 15.5mm |
| Water Resistance | 600M |
| El Primero 3620 | |
|---|---|
| Manufacture | Zenith |
| Movement Type | Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 Hours |
| Complications | Date |
| Escapement | Silicon |
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in Two-Tone
Next on my list is a new color variation rather than an entirely new model: the two-tone Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Two-tone Moonwatches are not common, with previous iterations often exclusive to the Italian market such as the reference DD 145.0022‑1. This year, we've already seen the new white dial reference 310.30.42.50.04.001 added to the lineup but the introduction of the two-tone Moonwatch rounds out the Moonwatch collection as a full-fledged luxury watch offering completing the full precious metal versions released in 2022.
The Moonwatch is transitioning into a more luxurious piece compared to its origins as a purpose-built tool watch. Historically, the Speedmaster has been a symbol of space exploration and precision, famously worn during the Apollo moon missions. Its robust design and reliable performance have made it a go-to allrounder for watch enthusiasts. However, Omega is now steering this iconic timepiece further into the territory of luxury, which is reflected in the two-tone design.
The steel Moonwatch was always a versatile watch, with its classic 60’s design easily able to do double duty as a dress watch, but the use of precious metals adds a layer of sophistication, making it even more suitable for both formal and casual settings. Despite these luxurious touches, it retains the core characteristics that have made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts: the precise chronograph movement, the tachymeter scale, and the iconic design.
At its core, the Moonwatch remains one of the best value-for-money watches in its steel variation. However, these new iterations signify a shift towards a more upscale market, similar to the trajectory Rolex took with its tool watches several decades ago. This evolution in design doesn't detract from its heritage but rather enhances its versatility and appeal. While we may not need more Speedmaster variations, it's always nice to have options that cater to different tastes and budgets.
| Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 310.20.42.50.02.001 | |
|---|---|
| Case/Bracelet Material | Steel & Yellow Gold |
| Bezel Material | Aluminium |
| Case Diameter | 42mm |
| Thickness | 13.9mm |
| Water Resistance | 50M |
| Calibre 3861 | |
|---|---|
| Manufacture | Omega |
| Movement Type | Manual Wind |
| Power Reserve | 50 Hours |
| Complications | Chronograph, METAS Certification |
| Escapement | Co-Axial, Si14 Hairspring |
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5mm
One of the most controversial introductions this year is the Bremont Terra Nova. Bremont has never been a brand that was high on my radar, not due to any fault of the brand but simply because I didn't know much about it. This allows me to view this release with a fresh perspective.
The Terra Nova marks a significant step for Bremont, a relatively young watch brand founded in 2002. Bremont has built a reputation for creating durable, aviation-inspired timepieces, but it has struggled to achieve the same level of recognition as more established brands. The Terra Nova aims to change that with its bold design and innovative features.
The watch features a distinctive case design with large, easy-to-read numerals, and a unique bracelet that sets it apart from other models. Its 40.5 mm diameter makes it a versatile choice for various wrist sizes, striking a balance between presence and wearability. The Terra Nova's design is both functional and stylish, with a robust build that reflects Bremont's commitment to durability.
This release is particularly noteworthy given the company's financial struggles. The new CEO, Davide Cerrato, has a track record of revitalizing brands, having been the driving force behind the Tudor Black Bay and Montblanc's watch renaissance. His experience and vision could be what Bremont needs to secure its place in the competitive watch market.
More than anything, the Terra Nova represents a new chapter for Bremont. It's a chance for the brand to redefine itself and carve out a niche in the luxury watch industry. The bold design choices and innovative features are a statement of intent, signaling Bremont's ambition to compete with the big names in horology.
I'd love to see how the Terra Nova feels on the wrist and whether it lives up to its promise. It's crucial for Bremont to succeed, as the failure of new watch brands can discourage innovation and leave the market dominated by established names. If the Terra Nova proves successful, it could inspire other new brands to take risks and innovate, ultimately benefiting watch enthusiasts with more diverse and exciting options.
| Bremont Terra Nova TN40-DT-SS-BK-B | |
|---|---|
| Case/Bracelet Material | Steel |
| Bezel Material | Steel |
| Case Diameter | 40.5mm |
| Thickness | 11.1mm |
| Water Resistance | 100M |
| Calibre BE-36AE | |
|---|---|
| Manufacture | ETA 2836-2 |
| Movement Type | Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 38 Hours |
| Complications | Date |
| Beat Rate | 28,800 VPH |
